Nature has been kind to the Campania region: fertile soil and a warm climate mean it’s perfect for growing everything from cherry tomatoes, fat olives and sweet grapes to highly aromatic lemons. The secret to its success can be seen looming over the city in the form of menacing Vesuvius; with the devastation of each successive volcanic eruption, the surrounding soil has been enriched with vital minerals that give the crops their extraordinary flavours.
And successive invasions by Greeks, Etruscans, Romans, Goths, Lombards, Saracens and Normans, have ensured that the diet is rich and varied. At the end of a meal, it’s customary to take a little ‘digestivo’ in the form of a shot of sunshine known as limoncello, a syrupy liqueur made from an infusion of lemon peel in alcohol.
The origins of limoncello are hazy; some say that farmers and fishermen drank a lemon-infused alcohol to ward off colds, others attribute its creation to the Carthusian monks who first created lemon fragrance on the island of Capri. The only documented evidence dates back to around 1900 when Maria Antonia Farace served the drink to her boarding house guests. Her son registered the name ‘limoncello’ in 1988.
There are several types of lemon produced in the region, each with different character and use. The island of Procida grows enormous fat lemons with a thick pith; less sharp than the standard lemon, they’re used to create a delicious lemon salad. Amalfi, Capri or Sorrento lemons, known as ‘femminiello’ are knobbly, thin-skinned and highly scented. It’s the peel of these unwaxed, organic lemons that is used to make limoncello.
The ‘femminello’ lemon has been awarded Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status, which means it can only be cultivated on the island of Capri and along the Sorrentine Peninsula. The lemons are usually grown under a structure made from chestnut poles which protects the fruit from inclement weather and birds. By March the pale yellow lemons, called ‘bianchetti’, ripen, and by June the green ‘verdelli’ are ready to be picked. The ripe fruits are washed and gently brushed in warm water and the aromatic peel is placed into pure alcohol, where it steeps for a month. As the rind macerates, the lemon oil and colour are instilled into the alcohol.
A small pot of sugared water, boiled and cooled, is added and the limoncello, which should then be left in the dark cupboard for another month. The peel is then removed and the limoncello is ready to serve – usually chilled, in a cold ceramic cup. The alcoholic content is around 30 per cent proof, while more adventurous types add it to champagne, or even ice cream. To celebrate the importance of the lemon to this region, the Festival of Lemons is held every July when visitors wander through the lemon groves and sample local products.
From family run lemon groves in Sorrento to Michelin-starred restaurants, here are four places to celebrate limoncello:
1. Champagne tastes, lemonade pockets
Just off the Corso Italia, Sorrento’s busiest street, is a veritable garden of Eden: line after line of lemon trees that, in spring, fill the air with their sweet scented lemon blossom. The Cataldo gardens are linked to groves dating back to the 19th century, when the estate was producing exclusively for the customers of the nearby Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria Hotel. Wander the lemon grove and find out how the famous drink is made while watching two (or even three, at busy times) staff in the tiny low-tech ‘factory’, and then sample their delicious limoncello. Orange and lemon marmalades, ice creams and granitas are also on sale, as well as a variety of other infused drinks, such as mandarincello, nocello, which is made from walnuts, and fennel, basil or liquorice-based drinks.
2. Back to the source
Set in a cluster of 19th century houses in the little village of Sant’Agata sui due Golfi, Don Alfonso 1890 is Alfonso Iaccarino’s boutique hotel, home to one of the finest restaurants in southern Italy, earning two Michelin stars for inventive dishes that use many ingredients from his own organic farm on nearby Punta Campanella. The legendary restaurant has expanded globally to Macau, Marrakech and Dubai, but nothing compares to the farm-fresh produce, extra-virgin olive oil and limoncello served at the original. One of the best things about this place is that after a wonderful dinner you can retire to one of eight individually designed bedrooms for a well-earned rest, before enjoying a stunning breakfast of homemade jams, breads, farm-fresh eggs and cheese. Along with limoncello, there’s a wine cellar with more than 25,000 bottles, a subterranean cheese room and a cookery school where you can learn the basics of Mediterranean cuisine.
3. Dine with la famiglia
Da Ciccio Cielo Mare Terra is a fourth generation family-run restaurant, one of the oldest on the Amalfi Coast and one of the most-loved. Established in 1931 with wonderful ocean views, the clifftop restaurant serves seasonal dishes created by Francisco (‘Ciccio’), with many ingredients from his own garden: Amalfitan lemons, tomatoes and courgettes, as well as a variety of herbs. Ciccio’s wife, Marinella, takes care of desserts, while their four sons take care of wines, the dining room, kitchen and reception. Fish is a speciality here, such as marinated seafood on lemon cream, followed by clams with olives, capers, fresh tomatoes and wild oregano, but Ciccio also produces a vegan menu, and every meal ends with a complimentary glass of limoncello. Guests can visit the farm by request.
4. Island time
Along with skippered yachts, gozzi (traditional fishing boats) and speedboats dropping anchor along the island of Capri, this exclusive tour company has expanded to include art and architectural walking tours, cooking and hands-on limoncello classes. In a private villa in Anacapri, with sweeping ocean views, guests learn the history and culture of the drink, and how to make the popular digestive from start to finish, beginning with picking the lemons from the lemon grove, right up to the tasting. The company specialises in bespoke tours and your limoncello demo can easily be combined with a cooking course with a local Capri chef, or as a delicious end to a day-long boat trip around the island.