A dentist by trade, a chef by passion, José Pizarro is known as the ‘Godfather of Spanish cuisine’. With six restaurants in his adopted country of England, this year he ventured outside of the UK for the first time to open José by Pizarro at Conrad Abu Dhabi Etihad Towers. The best blend of his two favourite UK restaurants, José’s latest venture lets UAE residents in on his culinary secrets...
From dentist to chef... How did that all come about?
Well, my family were farmers in Spain and my father said that I should do something for myself or come back to the farm. So I decided to become a dental technician. I passed, and I got a job in Seville. But I also did a cookery course before I started working as a dentist technician. I got sent to a restaurant to watch and learn and I loved it. I told my mum and dad that I wanted to be a chef and they were like ‘Noooo’! To be honest, they just wanted me to have security and a good job. But 30 years after... I’m still cooking. It’s what I love.
Is there a story that takes you back to when you first fell in love with food?
It was in my first job when I was a kitchen porter and the chef, Anna, asked me what is the favourite thing that my mum cooked, and it was her tomato soup. I remember, my mum never let me in the kitchen as the time for cooking was ‘her’ time. Even though I wasn’t allowed to cook, I always kept my eye on her. She made a very simple tomato soup, and when I first made mine, it probably wasn’t very good, but it’s something I’ll always remember.
You opened José in 2011 - how have you changed as a chef since then?
I think the big change happened in coming to London, because the style of cuisine I was doing at the time is different to what I’m doing now. It was more fancy food on the plate and I saw that people didn’t understand about ingredients and simplicity. I wanted to go back to simple ingredients and show people ingredients from Spain. But simplicity on the plate doesn’t mean it’s easier... I was able to understand different techniques to make simplicity stand out. I didn’t want to change, but then you discover new ingredients and new suppliers. But what I do is all about simplicity. It’s not simple or easy, in fact it’s often harder.
What kind of chef are you?
I just want to teach people about the greatness of Spanish cuisine and the culture. There’s no better way to teach people than through their belly!
As a huge advocate for Spanish cuisine, what makes it so special?
I think it’s the diversity. We’re very lucky, over the last 3,000 years in Spain there has been such a mix of cultures, religions, languages and people. Everything has been brought to our country, so we have so much diversity, which makes something very unique and it’s what I love most about Spain. This is also why I love the Abrahamic Family House in Abu Dhabi, since it encourages us to consider the relationship between us and what connects us, rather than what separates us.
Tell us a few of your signature José Pizarro dishes...
Well, the pastry section isn’t really my thing, but I love rice and I love cooking rice. It sounds simple, but it’s not at all. It’s so diverse. Everything starts with stock and then it’s about amazing ingredients, and what you put in it...
So, talking restaurants... Why did you decide to open one in Abu Dhabi?
Many years ago I went to Taste of Dubai and Taste of Abu Dhabi and I had an amazing time. I’m also very involved in art and when I heard the Louvre, and the Guggenheim are opening... It’s all about the culture. And the service is also incredible too. And I like Abu Dhabi because things happen a bit slower, which I like. It’s good to go slow. People need to understand what I do, about Spanish cuisine and what it’s all about, which is why Abu Dhabi feels like the right place to open.
What’s on the menu at José by Pizarro?
It can sometimes be hard to the get the best ingredients, but we have them... We have the best anchovies, the best king prawns. People think that Spanish cuisine is about croquetas... You need to showcase the rest of Spain and what we do. We have three different types of rice - one is cooked with beef, one is with red prawns and one is vegan with artichoke. When you see the rice perfectly cooked with three artichoke on top... You have to try it! We want to ensure that we’re including everyone. My job is to make people happy!
What other dishes should we try?
Definitely the meatballs that we do with cuttlefish, and then we serve with prawns, squid, and spaghetti with squid ink. Our Russian salad is really yummy, too, and mushroom cep croquetas, which are beautiful. But we like to change the menu, as we already have some regulars in the restaurant.
You’ll be back for Taste of Abu Dhabi this month. What’s on the menu?
We’ll have my croquetas, patatas bravas with a lovely spicy tomato sauce and aioli, and pepito beef sandwich, peppers and aioli, which is very good!
Do you get your ingredients here?
Yes... I’m doing a lot more research and finding a lot more local suppliers, as it’s important to work together if you want to make something special.
Are you very hands on?
Yes, absolutely. This year, I’ll have been to Abu Dhabi six times, and you have to do that to embed yourself in the community, meet the people and meet the best suppliers with the best produce.
I hear you’ve cooked for some very important people!
I can say that I was cooking for Queen Camilla last week, and I cook for many others but no-one more important than the British royals.
Talking about Abu Dhabi, what do you like to do when you’re here?
Visiting the museums - it’s my escape.
I love the Louvre, and when I come over next, I just want to spend the whole morning there! It’s important for me to learn more about the culture here, too.
THE GRILLING...
First dish you ‘mastered’ cooking: Tomato soup! Maybe it wasn’t the best back then but I’ve mastered it now!
Biggest achievement: Owning my house in Cádiz, and being able to take my mum there.
Cooking philosophy: Simplicity. And to deliver to my guests something very special.
Chef highlights: Meeting and cooking for the most incredible people, and my team.
Hardest thing: The hours... When everyone is out enjoying life, you’re in the kitchen. But that’s what hospitality is all about.
Dish you most enjoy cooking: Rice and seafood. I also love stewing.
Favourite UAE Restaurant: I love Sushi 99 – the tuna pizza with truffle is really good.
Best Restaurant: It’s not a restaurant, by my mum’s house, with her tomato soup and lentils!
Cooking tip: Organise yourself, be clear, map it out. Then you can enjoy it.
Last meal: I think it should be a banquet with a big table, and bring a lot of people!
Guilty pleasure: Spicy chicken pot noodles! It’s so synthetic, so bad, but so good!
Favourite city for food: San Sebastián, for its diversity. I’ve been going for years.
Fondest travel memory: Thailand and Rajasthan, which I went to a few years ago.
I cycled 500 kilometres in five days!
Best advice: My parents always told me, whatever you do, do it from your heart.