In a city defined by its relentless pursuit of the extraordinary, Jara by Martín Berasategui has emerged as a quiet, elegant revelation. Perched on the 18th floor of The Lana, Dorchester Collection’s architectural jewel in Downtown Dubai, guests enter a realm where time slows, senses heighten and the soul of the Basque Country is reimagined through fire and finesse.
Named after Berasategui’s granddaughter, Jara—meaning rockrose in Spanish—is as much a love letter as it is a landmark. It is a story of lineage and land, carried across continents and expressed in flame-kissed fish, melt-in-your-mouth meats and vegetables coaxed into brilliance by nothing more than smoke and salt.
As I step forward into the dapper surroundings, the scent of smoldering embers teases what’s to come. There is no rush. The earth-toned elegance and moody lighting suggest a different rhythm—one of reverence. The open kitchen hums like a backstage atelier, where culinary craftsmen in crisp whites shape each dish with almost meditative precision. Here, Basque culinary traditions meet Berasategui’s signature innovation, with no detail overlooked.
Our guide for the evening, Bruno, takes me on a journey through the menu with a plethora of options to choose from. There’s the full gamut of meats and seafoods, all sourced directly from Spain in order to achieve the most authentic tastes.
The evening begins with a tomato tartare. It’s delicious, and with its texture and flavour, I could easily mistake it for a steak tartare ¬ terrific news for a carnivore like myself. Accompanying this entrée is Berasategui’s version of gilda, a classic bar snack from San Sebastian that is loaded with olives, piparra pepper, marinated red tuna and pickled spring onions. The tuna replacing the traditional salted anchovy really elevates and refines the dish. However, the star of the show and my personal favourite is the mixed-mushroom croquettes. Crispy and delicate, it is a single bite that explodes with a creamy mushroom filling. It’s so good, I consider requesting another serving. But with the mains on the horizon, I hold my tongue… for this evening at least.
When one thinks of flames it conjures images of something uncontrollable. But the refined Australian Westholme wagyu T-bone steak can only be described as a thing of beauty; supreme cuts of meat, passed through the charcoal grill and paired with the Basque chimichurri that oozes deliciousness with each bite.
In a city that dazzles when it comes to incredible dining experiences, Jara dares to do something different. It’s not about spectacle, though it has that in abundance. It’s about soul and showcasing the very best the Basque Country has to offer. I certainly will be back.
Dorchestercollection.com
