While I generally relish Dubai’s endless summer, there’s something to be said for enjoying the cosiness of the end-of-year festive season – generally associated with not-so-Dubai-like cooler climes. But with the recent cold snap – a term admittedly used loosely here – it was the ideal opportunity to leave the al fresco tables for another day and warm up with something heartier.

Luckily, Vesna recently opened in the Conrad Dubai, and specialising in hearty Slavic cuisine, it seemed the ideal choice for such a mood. Named after the Russian word for “spring”, the inspiration for the season is apparent upon entering the venue, which is dotted by pretty floral patterns that appear throughout, from the staff’s clothing and the dishware to garland embellishments on the walls.

Softly lit crystal chandeliers and plush chairs with colourful Eastern European pashminas thrown across them make for a warm atmosphere, with brick walls and hardwood floors imbuing something of a rustically elegant look. But the general ambiance is decidedly fine dining with its sedate mood and a live pianist and singer belting lounge-tinged tunes.

The service is terrific from start to finish with staff that is attentive, personable and well educated on the menu, which is full of dishes that many Dubai diners may be unfamiliar with – after all, it’s not every day a modish Slavic restaurant opens here.  

Past the comfortable lounge and long bar, and into the dining room where an open kitchen displays flames and gleaming stainless-steel accoutrements, I get my first look at the contemporary menu, which pairs Eastern Europe’s classic dishes with touches of international flair by award-winning head chef Maksim Tvorogov.

One of my first dishes, the borsch, is an excellent example of Tvorogov’s globe-trotting style. Arguably one of the region’s most well known meals, here the traditional beet soup with tender bites of slow-cooked beef gets an added kick from Indian spices, resulting in a layered mix of flavours that overjoys my taste buds.

Dairy also features on the menu, with two appetising nibbles featuring sour cream and cottage cheese, both house-made: the former a tangy accompaniment to gently fried breaded mushrooms marinated in dill and herbs (I could snack on a bucket of these like popcorn); and the latter the star ingredient in forshmack, a herring-laced spread for toasted bread (steer clear if fishy flavours aren’t your thing).

I, having been raised in a heavily Polish-populated city in America, was probably most excited to try the vareniki – or pierogi, as we called the Polish cousin that every resident dines on by the dozens during Lent each year. At Vesna, the little bundles of mushroom- and puréed potato-filled boiled dumplings were a bit daintier, but still a heart-warming treat I’d return to order again.

In the mains, I was less enthusiastic about the chicken fritter; the dense, but lightly fried, patty of chicken cutlet lacked the flavour of other dishes, landing a bit flat for me. The succulent, fast-fried Norwegian salmon brought things back on track, however, and the rich meat paired nicely with the contrasting – but harmonised – tangy lemon and creamed spinach accompaniments.

Try – it’s practically a dare with the hearty menu – to save room for dessert, with sweet cherry vareniki and rich cakes laced with honey and, my personal favourite, airy biscuit with buttercream and dark chocolate in the Kiev cake. Brimming with Eastern European life, Vesna is a fairly unique for Dubai, and a wholesome experience worth trying especially as the weather dips into the positively chilly teens. But whenever you visit, just be sure to arrive with a very empty stomach.

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