Walking into Catalan, the restaurant that promises a slice of Barcelona in the UAE capital, you might wonder if this really is an authentic Spanish restaurant.
The room doesn’t feel traditionally Catalan. It is, in fact, fairly unremarkable: cream walls, accents of gold, pale wood floors and bright lighting. You could be anywhere. But don’t let this fool you. The plain decor is merely the backdrop for a menu as vibrant and colourful as the autonomous Spanish region’s celebrated flag, La Senyera.
Ensconced in the newly opened Rosewood Abu Dhabi, the outlet is the brainchild of double Michelin-starred chef, Antonio Saez. What’s particularly appealing about Chef Antonio is that he hasn’t simply masterminded the menu of fresh seasonal Catalan produce, then zipped off to handle another outlet. He is actually the chef in situ, and clearly relishes the opportunity to come out, chat to the customers and explain his twist on tradition.
It’s upon his recommendation that I choose my starter: Spanish sardines and a take on beef tartare which, I am promised, is pure Barcelona. The dishes arrive at the table, plated in an attractive but uncomplicated style, showcasing premium products in all their glory.
The sardines come in silky slices, deboned and layered thickly over a zingy sofrito (a mix of onions, peppers, garlic and tomatoes) that cuts through the richness of the oily fish with a bright, zesty note. The dish is finished with beetroot cream and a smoked anchovy canapé, highlighting that glorious fresh sea flavour.
The tartare comes in a round patty of roughly minced meat, topped with a fried egg and surrounded by a chopped oyster mix that compounds the richness of the meat. It’s a large starter, not one for the faint-hearted, and I feel the need for something light and acidic to cut through all that rich, silky meat.
Happily, the restaurant has a stellar wine cellar that exclusively showcases Spanish wines, lovingly overseen by restaurant manager, Jordi. I take Jordi’s advice on pairings for each course, and receive not only some great recommendations but also some history about each vintage.
Back on the food front, selecting a main course from the Fall/Winter menu is another tough task. In the end, I opt for the classic Catalan chicken paella, with porcini mushrooms, turnips and crispy artichokes.
The rice is woody, nutty and creamy, packed with generous chunks of chicken and plump mushrooms, simmered in a slightly smoky stock and served in a heavy cast-iron pan. It’s not a showy dish, but definitely a winner, with flavours so subtle and well combined, it feels like we’re eating a bonfire-scented autumn day. Pure food nostalgia.
Pudding is presented with panache — a billow of smoke, to be precise — finishing the meal off with some contemporary flair. We order smoked and caramelised torrija, a Spanish bread pudding of sorts, served with milk ice-cream, plum chutney and grapefruit air.This updated classic arrives under a glass dome, hidden under clouds of smoke. The cover is lifted with a flourish at the table, leaving me surprised as the warm smoke dissipates to reveal a chilled dessert.
Feeling guilty for tucking into such an elegant creation, I crack through the crisp brown caramel top to discover a rich, almost custard base with sweet vanilla notes from the ice-cream, the fruity flavours adding a beautiful tart note to the mix.
It’s the perfect end to a meal that has been refreshingly different and yet familiar. This is a menu that seems to encapsulate what Catalan is all about. It’s not afraid to try something new, but all the while harking back to its traditional Spanish roots.
THE IMPORTANT BIT
What: Catalan
Where: Rosewood Abu Dhabi
Open: dinner 7-11.30pm
www.rosewoodhotels.com
