“Ok, this is my favourite dish of tonight,” declares my dining companion as she savours another helping of piquant sorbet that's perched upon a mini ice block. It’s her fourth such declaration of the evening and I'm inclined to agree. The previous three hours has seen us delve into the gastronomic masterclass of Zuma Dubai’s daikoku signature menu—a set menu specially curated by the forever trendy venue’s kitchen team—and it is nearly impossible to single out which plate secures top spot on my list, such has been culinary excellence that has been placed before us.
A stalwart of Dubai’s culinary capital, DIFC, Rainer Becker’s concept has stood the test of time in the city’s notorious boom or bust dining scene.
Having first opened its doors to the world in 2008, the restaurant still heaves with admirers of Japanese cuisine alongside Dubai’s glitterati jostling for entry, never mind a seat. This evening is no different as there’s already a queue at the glass elevator that whisks guests up to the restaurant’s reception. Unbeknown to us, there are two entrances, resulting in a smattering of confused messages about each other’s whereabouts. Fortunately, we reunite at the reception and are ushered to our table by one of an army of hostesses equipped with an iPad.
Split over two levels, the top floor is home to the lounge, where you will find plush, low-slung, crimson chairs paired with low-lying tables. Over the way, the bar is abuzz with a collection of cool cats who are enjoying the pumping music and extravagantly crafted cocktails. Our destination for the evening, however, is one floor down to the restaurant, where we have prime viewing of the sushi counter and the chefs showcasing their spectrum of culinary skills.
Seats taken, we cast our eyes over a selection of menus, all brimming with innovative and contemporary Japanese bites. Of course, the food is the star attraction, however Zuma’s series of signature drinks is hard to ignore; a Japanese Paloma for the lady and a Zuma negroni topped with a fascinating blue jelly orange for myself. We decide upon the 14 servings of the daikoku signature menu and kick off proceedings with a glass of Champagne.
The meal begins with the Japanese restaurant staple, miso soup, which is packed with tofu, wakame and spring onion. The dish is accompanied by sliced sear tuna with chili daikon and ponzu sauce and six pieces of seared salmon with lime shiso soy which offers up a flavourful kick. The servings come at a rapid pace, which is great news for me as I have built up a ravenous appetite, staring at the restaurant’s Instagram page at work a few hours earlier.
Next is steamed Japanese spinach wrapped up in sesame sauce, and beef and green chili skewers with smoked chili soy, which we both devour intensely. This is followed by a delicious eggplant and spinach gyoza and the moreish rock shrimps. Gently battered, they are sprinkled with green pea wasabi and joined by a chili dip. It’s a perfect combo.
A short interval allows us to gaze around our surroundings. Our vantage point is made for people watching. Guests strut up and down the stairs in their elegant couture as if they are on a sleek catwalk belonging to one of the major fashion houses. Alas, our observations are redirected immediately when a giant sushi and sashimi selection appears at the table.
There are seven pieces, each of which are consumed without hesitation. Asparagus drizzled in wafu sauce and sesame follows, before the final four show-stopping savoury dishes. There’s miso-marinated black cod, delicately wrapped in a hoba leaf; spicy beef tenderloin with red chili; a jumbo tiger prawn with yuzu pepper; and Japanese sweetcorn that is dripping in shiso ponzu butter— utterly delicious but best to be savoured when not wearing a white shirt. Belt buckles under pressure, the deluxe dessert platter soon arrives.
It is gargantuan and easily doubles up as the table’s centrepiece. It is overflowing with fruits of every kind, mochi cake, sorbets, ice cream and the oh-so mouthwatering special chocolate cake with vanilla bean ice cream. It’s too much, but what an ending to the culinary journey.
Zuma Dubai’s reputation as an icon of the city’s gastro-scene is well-earned. A place where the city’s gastronomes and socialites converge, the restaurant’s star appeal seems to grow brighter with every passing year as it continues to deliver exquisite twists on Japanese fare and superb nightlife experiences. And as for our favourite dish? We will offer a definitive answer at the end of our next visit.