10.00 - The journey to Habitas AlUla is one of mystery and mystique, as you wind your way through the desert canyons of the Ashar Valley, with its 200,000 years of human history, from the Paleolithic Era through to the Bronze Age, to ancient kingdoms and Roman and Islamic settlements. Enveloped by sandstone cliffs and palm groves, Habitas AlUla charts a new course for luxury hospitality across a land unfamiliar to the modern traveller. A tented retreat of just 96 guest rooms, all created with ethically-sourced organic materials, it’s an oasis of tranquility that draws energy from nature. Reserve a Celestial Villa for all the space you’ll need to absorb the dramatic views of burning sunsets amongst the sandstone cliffs.

Position yourself on the terrace for mind-blowing views over the valley. After you’ve laid your knife and fork to rest, treat yourself to some lounging time of your own by the infinity pool, dozing off under the watchful gaze of Najma, an electric blue female statue by Lita Albuquerque – one of several Desert X AlUla interactive art pieces that have found a permanent home at the property.

16.00 - AlUla is rich in cultural experiences, few more incredible than a visit to Hegra, Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are over 110 remarkably well-preserved tombs peppered over the desert landscape, with evidence of human presence and use of the site dating back beyond the 1st millennium BCE. Along with tombs that were used to lay Nabatean elite to rest, you’ll also find wells and stone-lined water channels, each demonstrating the ancient civilisation’s expert craftsmanship. The best way to explore the expansive terrain is in a vintage Land Rover, cruising from carved tombs to secret ceremonial chambers on a two-hour private tour with a Rawi, an experienced guide and storyteller. Start at the rocky outcrop of Jabal Ithlib, before ticking off some of the stunning tombs carved into the sandstone rock faces that make AlUla so unique.

18.00 - On your way back to Habitas AlUla, pass by Desert X 2020’s contemporary art installations, each designed to ignite cross-cultural dialogue and conversations around how art can live outside of museums and galleries. Dotted throughout AlUla’s sparse desertscapes, each piece, from Desert X AlUla 2020, works together to build a living museum and a world-class art exhibit in one. Back at the hotel, stop by Tama or Moon Shell for a sundowner in serenity. If these monoliths could talk, their stories would be tenfold, but instead you can sit back, soak up the wonder of nature and daydream about all those who have come to Ashar Valley before you.

20.00 - When the sun has set and you’ve dusted off the sand, make a dinner reservation at Maraya Social Restaurant, Michelin-starred British chef Jason Atherton’s fine-dining restaurant on the rooftop of AlUla’s iconic mirrored building, Maraya – the world’s largest mirrored building, in fact. Views cast out over the rock-strewn valley, while the menu draws inspiration from AlUla, with produce sourced from local farms, all served up in Atherton’s signature style. You can dine on octopus carpaccio, salted baked beetroot, salmon confit and passion fruit cheesecake either inside surrounded by greenery, or on the rooftop terrace under the stars.

THE NEXT DAY....

07.00 - There is truly no better way to start the day than by embarking on a journey of wellbeing. As part of Habitas AlUla’s six programming pillars – music, wellness, adventure, culture, learning and culinary – all mornings should begin at Thuraya Wellness. Named after a star constellation widely used by bedouins to navigate the desert plains, the holistic space, made from all-natural materials, nestles into the surrounding rocks, creating a cocoon of privacy and peace. There’s an alchemy bar, spa treatment rooms, a fitness centre, an outdoor wellness agora and a yoga studio. Sunrise yoga and meditation will recharge you for day ahead, improving your clarity of thought and awakening your body.

Once stretched and rebalanced, try the alchemy bar, which offers different essential oils, herbal teas and body scrubs using all-natural local ingredients, mixed to create a sensorial discovery for your personalised treatment. Decide between a herbal aromatherapy massage, reflexology, aroma-stone massage therapy or the Essence of Arabia hydrating treatment, which uses rose-based ingredients in a physical-energetic massage and hydrating facial.

09.00 - Reward your early-morning workout with breakfast back at Tama or on your private terrace, because everything tastes better when enveloped in valley views. Coconut chia pudding, chocolate overnight oats, avocado toast, Tama shakshouka and Tulum benedict will set you up just right for what lies ahead... A day of adventuring around AlUla.

10.00 - Hop back into your vintage Land Rover to embark on a two-hour Dadan and Jabal Ikmah tour. You’ll start in the ancient city of Dadan, once a popular caravan way station, and visited by those wishing to leave their inscriptions and offerings en route through AlUla. Here you’ll see over a dozen tombs cut into red-rock cliff faces just outside the city, as well as the seated lion sculptures that mark the famous Lion Tombs. Then go in search of Jabal Ikmah, a nearby mountain just 10 minutes from Dadan. Described as a huge ‘open-air library’, no site holds as much significance as Jabal Ikmah, which has the highest concentration of – and most varied – rock carvings and inscriptions in AlUla. And no doubt the most awe-striking, too. Thousands of pre-Arabic engravings of humans, musical instruments and animals lie in various sites across the valley, imprinted in Aramaic, Dadantic, Thamudic, Minaic and Nabatean, each offering a glimpse into the past, and important for early studies of the Arabic language.

12.30 - All that sightseeing will no doubt have worked up an appetite, so take yourself to AlUla Old Town – the 12th-century medieval city – to experience Saudi Arabian fine dining at Suhail. The high-end modern menu at this rooftop restaurant takes inspiration from the ancient spices of the Arabian Peninsula and the time-honoured traditions of Middle East cooking, with traditional Saudi dishes that will make you feel like you’re eating a slice of the past with every plate. Try the AlUla orange and lavender salad for something fresh, the camel meat and artichoke for something bold, and the chicken saleeq al taif, with milk-cooked rice and green herbs sauce, for something comforting. Surrounded by sandstone walls and warmed by the sun, the outdoor terrace is inviting and will feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

14.00 - After lunch, the cultural curiosities of AlUla Old Town await, so set aside a good few hours to stroll the open-air sites. An essential settlement along the pilgrimage route from Damascus to Makkah, AlUla Old Town once opened its gates to welcome travellers, pilgrims and other visitors each day. Overlooked by the AlUla Old Town Castle, you can weave your way around the town’s numerous shops and five town squares, some of which still contain remnants of some of the original stone and mudbrick buildings constructed here. Artisan shops and stalls at the outdoor market sell everything from camel soaps and traditional crafts to wicker baskets and jewellery, while different alleyways will take you on a journey of discovery, with contemporary art popping up to reward your wander.

Once you’ve finished here, make your way on foot to AlJadidah, a vibrant artistic hub next to Old Town, that features beautiful murals, unsuspecting art installations and the world’s largest hand-painted carpet line the pedestrian streets. Overlooking the AlUla Oasis, you’ll find the five distinct squares – Art Square, Gathering Square, Muayada Square, Qanat Square and Oasis Square – each with their own unique atmosphere, from arts to music to food. Book a beauty appointment at Base & Boon or The Art Of Shaving, then make a pit-stop at Oasis Tea Café, set in lush green surrounds, where you can sip mint tea, with leaves freshly-picked from the gardens.

17.00 - From the labyrinthine streets to the top of a mountain, no visit to AlUla should skip sunset at OKTO. Set atop the beautiful outlook area of Harrat Uwayrid, the views are to die for, with the sun casting mystical shadows over the outdoor restaurant as it dips behind the mountains. Telescopes are dotted around the vast viewing platform to help you see AlUla Oasis and the magnificent desert all the more clearly. Arrive before sundown to make the most of the sights and sounds of Golden Hour, when the sky’s orange glow adds a magical touch to everything you see. No amount of filters can match these colours. When darkness sweeps in, find a seat at OKTO’s all-black bar, or round the toasty bonfire in the lounge area. Sip a mocktail, enjoy a pre-dinner gyro, seafood spaghetti or Greek salad, and enjoy feeling like you’re on top of the world.

21.00 - When dinner calls, head to Myazu at Shaden Resort, which brings a little Asian gastronomy to AlUla. The term ‘Myazu’ is a contemporary culinary art rooted in Japanese culture, which blends here with international influences. Fine dining in a chic setting, the menu finds a harmonious culinary composition between sweet, smokey, spicy and vibrant flavours over dishes such as black cod gyoza, gulf prawn tempura wagyu beef robata, and crispy duck and watermelon salad. Save room for dessert, because the banana peanut crumble, with toffee sauce is to die for. When you’re finally sated, return to Habitas AlUla, wrap up in something warm, then sit out on your private terrace to experience the entire universe under the clear starry skies of AlUla.

THE NEXT DAY...

07.00 - Rise and shine early to make the most of the morning, and head out on an AlUla Hidden Valley four-kilometre hike, or on a Heritage Oasis Trail walk through AlUla’s verdant landscapes. Stroll under towering date palms and smell the cool freshness of the earth along the trail. You can meander amid remnants of mudbrick houses, local farms and ancient walls, each step taking you back in time. Something special about this excursion is that you can chat with the local elders along the way, sipping on stiff Arabic coffee or freshly-squeezed orange juice, whilst being regaled with stories of yesteryear. Invited to scatter seeds of plants, like mint, carrot and onions, and help feed the chickens, ducks and sheep kept on the farm, you’ll soon see why the slow pace of AlUla Oasis makes it so special – a verdant sanctuary much cherished by all those who have passed through and remain. Don’t miss the palm tree swing, for a foray into the oasis’ playful side.

09.00 - Keep energy levels up with a visit to Pink Camel Pastry Boutique by Saudi Chef Mayada Badr, found tucked away in AlUla’s famous date palms and citrus trees. With an eye on the environment, it’s all rustic terrace-style seating, wooden floors, and recycled paper menus, letting its laidback ambience shine through to the scent of the fragrant oasis. It serves delicious coffee, from flat whites to pistachio lattes, strong enough to kickstart the rest of your day, as well as French toast, acai bowls, pastries and its famous macarons, available in every imaginable colour.

10.00 - With energy restored, swing by the AlUla Zip Line on Harrat Mountain, to race Saudi’s longest and fastest high wire for a serious mid-morning adrenalin rush.

11.00 - It’s time to swap one desert retreat for another, as you bid adieu to Habitas AlUla and call Banyan Tree AlUla your new home-away-from-home. An enchanted sanctuary suspended in time and space, this all-villa resort takes design cues from the surrounding landscape of the Ashar Valley – all soft, sinewy lines, natural materials and muted tones. You’ll be stunned by the stillness and sheer force of nature that envelops you. Each villa feels like a breath of fresh air, designed in luxurious Arabian style with local AlUla charm, and positioned to lap up the valley views. For style and simplicity, bed down in a Dune One Bedroom Pool Villa, elegantly arranged with authentic handcrafted antiques, or for more space and privacy, reserve a Dune Three Bedroom Pool Villa which sleeps six, with a large living area, 10-seater dining table, secluded terrace and private swimming pool that faces the sandstones and dunes.

12.00 - When lunchtime beckons, make your way Harrat, Banyan Tree AlUla’s multi-sensory experience. Decorated with locally-made handicrafts, from rugs to earthenware, you can really immerse yourself in the local experience, before feasting on the region’s favourite flavours, with recipes curated by local chefs and ingredients directly sourced from AlUla’s sustainable farms. Dip between seafood and Middle Eastern mezze to pasta and fresh grills for a lazy lunch in the shadow of the valley.

14.00 - Once you’ve eaten, spend time exploring Banyan Tree AlUla’s three concepts of ‘in-villa, in-valley and in-voyage’ letting yourself be immersed in a multi-sensory experience. In-villa features made-to-measure dining, wellbeing and entertainment; in-valley will take you into the essence of the natural surrounds through exclusive outdoor treatments, nomadic chef’s tables and different adventures; while in-voyage will invite you to connect with local artisans through crafted immersions that will unlock the story behind AlUla’s rich heritage.

17.00 - If there’s one way to really experience the spectacular length and breadth of AlUla it’s from the air, so take to the skies with a 30-minute helicopter ride. Bookable throughout the day, the scene-stealer has to be sunset, when the valleys are bathed in vibrant golden light. From your privileged vantage point, you’ll take in seven of AlUla’s most famous landmarks and heritage sites, including Jabal AlFil – AlUla’s most famous geological rock formation, and more commonly known as Elephant Rock; the evening reflections off Maraya’s mirrored panelling; Jabal Ikmah – the open-air library; and the natural beauty of AlUla Old Town.

19.00 - AlUla is a city that comes alive after night fall, with wonderfully diverse ways to experience more of the desert. Bring the past into the present with a concert at Maraya, with contemporary music concerts juxtaposed against the ancient valley walls. This winter season, a new line-up of international and regional artists will take to the stage, with performances part of AlUla Moments concert series this month. International Grammy-nominated megastars OneRepublic will be setting foot on AlUla soil for the first time on November 10, followed by singer/songwriter genius John Legend on November 11. Then music moves from west to east on November 18, with a performance by Syrian singer, Faia Younan, who brings her unique mix of fresh, light and original Arabic and Syriac songs to Maraya for the second time. And lastly, a concert by Egyptian soprano Mai Farouk and the Arab Orchestra on November 25, who will perform mid-20th century Egyptian music of the iconic singer Umm Kulthoum and Mohammed Abdul Wahab.

21.00 - AlUla’s dining scene goes from strength to strength every year, with big-hitting international restaurants settling in for a pop-up season during the winter, such as London’s iconic Annabel’s. If you’re looking for something a little more on the relaxed side, go in search of Somewhere, a beautiful inconspicuous farm-to-table restaurant tucked into an bucolic farm in AlJadidah’s Cultural Oasis District. Its concept is inspired by one’s love for travelling and enjoying the journey of reaching an unknown destination. “Let us take you somewhere”, as its neon sign says.

22.00 - Before you call it a night, there’s time to squeeze in one – or two – more experiences to end your AlUla adventure on a high. Under the umbrella of AlUla Moments, the 2022 events line-up includes The Ancient Kingdoms Festival, from November 11-27, a 17-day festival that unlocks the stories surrounding three ancient interconnected oases – AlUla, Khaybar and Tayma – letting you dive into the past to discover ancient traditions, customs, arts and food. Hegra After Dark will give you an unforgettable after-dark tours to Tomb 100 by candlelight, and there’s the Music of Ancient Eras in the Silent City, Hegra, with performances in the World Heritage Site from world-famous artists, such as oud player Maestro Naseer Shamma. There’s also Winter at Tantora from December 21 to January 21 – the region’s longest-running high-end music and arts festival, with star-studded concerts and immersive heritage experiences. Winter at Tantora will be followed by more events and festivals, all of which honouring the rich culture, heritage and raw beauty of AlUla.

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