Ayurveda is a lifestyle system as complex as it is old. It may have a 5,000 year-old history, but still today millions rely on its teachings in order to live a healthier, more balanced lifestyle. Essentially, Ayurveda is a practice based on ‘dosha’ types. Each person is one of three doshas: vata (wind), kapha (earth) or pitta (fire). An Ayurvedic doctor can determine which dosha a person is by asking them a serious of questions about their routines, personality traits and habits. Treatments such as massage, yoga, oils, herbal remedies and meal plans are then prescribed accordingly to balance mood and health.
Mumbai is the main gateway city to the birthplace of Ayurveda, South India, so, it is fitting that many Ayurvedic journeys begin in the city, where there are plenty of good spas to choose from. One of Mumbai’s best addresses, the Taj Lands End (part of The Leading Hotels of the World) recently opened its Jiva Spa. It may be small, but it packs an Ayurvedic punch. Beginning my spa journey there, I booked in for a session of Orja Dayaka, a traditional energising massage. As I entered the low-lit treatment room, the first thing I noticed were the transporting Indian scents in the air: wafts of nagarmotha, patchouli, tulsi and ashwagandha. I had arrived in India.
As the therapist mixed the oils and began her massage techniques, all tension, especially the build-up in my shoulders, began to lift. Deep-seated aches, lodged for months, repealed. When the treatment was over, I felt energised, lifted and more balanced. As I emerged, I was reminded that my visit coincided with India’s wedding season. I took a front-row seat in the lobby as the great and good of the city began to pile into the Taj Lands End for what looked like a superstar, Bollywood gathering.
Sequins and crystals from saris bounced their shimmering light off marble floors and fountains. Outside, drummers announced the arrival of the bride and groom. More crowds gathered, dressed in a kaleidoscope of colours. Eventually the groom arrived, to much clapping and dancing, on horseback. Pure theatre. It can’t be denied that such extravagance sums up Mumbai: this is a city where glamour dazzles every strata of society. After a taste of Ayurveda, it is tempting to delve deeper. This requires peace and quiet, so I headed for the hills to the new Hilton Shillim Estate Retreat & Spa in India’s Western Ghats, a three-hour drive from Mumbai.
It was a relief to leave the traffic-choked streets of the city behind. Soon, we were beyond the city limits and monkeys appeared on the side of the road. Ahead, the emerald green landscape of India’s Western Ghats shone, lush and inviting. A decent road delivered me to the 1,416-hectare privately-owned Shillim Estate, which sat deceptively in the hills. In the distance, ancient villages unchanged by time stood next to the historic Maratha forts of Tungi, Tikona, Lohgad and Visapur. At the retreat, golf buggies buzzed gently in the background ready to deliver guests from the arrival area (not a lobby, but rather an open-to-the-elements arrangement) to the 99 luxury villas.
The first thing that struck me about Shillim was the fact that it’s unlike any other Hilton in the world; a retreat, rather than a resort, hotel or wellness centre. The retreat may have been busy during my stay, but there was no way of telling. I didn’t spy another guest, although I was told that the hotel was full. All the buildings merge with the surrounding rice fields, bamboo plantations and virgin forest. At Shillim, privacy and serenity reign supreme.
Once I’d settled into my spa villa, an inviting space with cool tones, drystone walling, an enormous bathroom and private pool, my butler (all villas have one) handed me an itinerary, stressing that the activities — including daily meditation, yoga and a culture class at the Shillim Institute — were merely suggestions. I liked the idea of removing choices. In our everyday lives we are bombarded by options, so to have some experts take charge was refreshing.
Next, the Ayurvedic doctor arrived to determine my dosha and to put me on the right course of activities and treatments over the next couple of days. After a short consultation, my diet and spa treatments could be aligned with my dosha moving forwards. Even the doctor went to some lengths to reassure me that there are plenty of distractions, such as wine-tasting, that I was free to enjoy too, if I wished. This is an important differentiation, since Shillim is not a hardcore health spa. All guests are free to be as easy or radical as they like.
The chefs can provide light and healthy meal options, but, for those after a little more indulgence, the menu also features the best curries you could hope for, along with wonderfully decadent puddings and an impressive wine cellar, which will be among the biggest in India when complete. Perfect.
The next couple of days involve ‘yoga nidra’ (sleeping) meditation, observing birdsong (my garden was alive with tiny multi-coloured birds feasting on raspberry plants), walking up to Shillim Peak for breakfast and plenty of time spent at the heart of the Shillim Estate, the Shillim Spa. I slotted into a routine easily and every whim was catered to by disarmingly friendly staff.
Spanning a whopping 28-hectares, the Shillim Spa is one of the most extensive in Asia with 17 treatment rooms with private gardens, five consultation rooms, four relaxation terraces, a yoga pavilion, meditation cave, saunas and outdoor hot tubs. It’s a wonderfully relaxing place that doesn’t feel as large as it actually is.
Scanning the 150 or so spa options, which include pranic (energy) healing, Ayurveda, chakra cleansing, shamanism, fire healing, music therapy, dance therapy, tai chi, watsu, hydrotherapy and reiki, I opted for a classic Elakizhi massage for my first treatment. We started with a body massage, which utilised herbal oils, before the therapist began to move a hot poultice of leaves and forest herbs over my joints. It was a deep, warming treatment that was truly indulgent.
Afterwards, I stepped out to an intense pink sunset that seemed to silence the birds in the hills. Shillim, with its laid-back vibe, doting staff, unbeatable chefs and abundant nature, felt like paradise, making it very hard to leave.
THE GOLDEN BOOK
Taj Lands End
Tel: +91 226 668 1234
www.tajhotels.com
Hilton Shillim Estate Retreat & Spa
Tel: +91 21 1 471 2468
www3.hilton.com
