The Ottoman Turks liked their palaces lavish and opulent. The traditional Ottoman-style architecture that makes up the exterior of Jumeirah Zabeel Saray is subtle and refined; beige arches and vaulted balconies are broken up with horizontal brushes of darker lines and rooftop domes, and the sandstone façade of the grand entrance is reached via a black and white marble pathway, lined by flowerbeds.
The great dome in the lobby is decorated with beautiful hand-painted frescoes (think of Istanbul’s Blue Mosque on a slightly smaller scale), and the interior architecture is as refined and grandiose as you would expect from a classical Ottoman Palace. The elaborate chandeliers, oversized gold pillars and intricate freestanding candelabras induce the requisite “wow” on arrival, and provide a warm welcome fit for a king.
Throughout the downstairs public areas, walls are adorned with Turkish art and murals, a theme that continues all the way from the lobby up to the Imperial floor, whose long, wide corridor is like a quiet wing of a museum. As you walk the corridor, the eyes of Sultans and Grand Viziers of days gone by peer down at you from works of art on the walls, and the floor is dappled in sunlight streaming in from glass-topped domes that run the length of the corridor.
I stayed in room 604, one of 10 Imperial One-Bedroom Suites on the sixth floor of the hotel. Inside, a rich and spacious abode is draped in warm silks and fabrics inspired by the Ottoman palaces of old: gold walls with ornate trimmings, tasselled burgundy cushions scattered on the huge divan, and heavy pistachio curtains.
The royal splendour of the room belies the technology within. All the electronic features of the suite are controlled with the Cicso telephone system beside the bed, which allows you to open or close the curtains, turn up the air conditioning and dim the lights. You can also activate the ‘do not disturb’ sign, set your wake-up call or order in-room dining. There are 42-inch Samsung flat-screens in the bedroom and living room, plus an iPod docking station at the bedside, so you can make the most of the hotel’s wide selection of international TV stations – from the comfort of the vast sumptuous divan of course – or listen to your own music while you plan your next move.
But the lion’s share of praise has to be reserved for the bathroom, where a sunken marble Turkish bath (easily big enough for four to bathe comfortably) takes pride of place opposite the hammered copper ‘his and hers’ sinks, which sit under an enormous ceiling-height mirror embossed with circular Turkish designs.
Although it’s huge, the vast tub fills quickly thanks to a high-pressure sluice-style tap. There’s ample space on the edge of the tub for platters of dates or Turkish Delight for the perfect bathtime indulgence. Amenities come from UK-based Asprey London’s Purple Water range, and there’s a walk-in rain shower.
There’s plenty of wardrobe space for long stays, separated from the rest of the living room with a hand-carved latticed trellis. The king-sized bed has a soft golden headboard set underneath more intricate metal-work, which forms a dome overhead, creating the ultimate regal slumber spot for aspiring sultans and sultanas.
Another highlight is the balcony, which seems to take up a substantial proportion of the suite’s 94 square metres. Stretching from the living room across to the bedroom, the sixth floor-balcony allows for great views across the fronds and trunk of The Palm Jumeirah to the east, plus the hotel’s expansive grounds below.
Signature dining at Lalezar is classic Turkish Anatolian cuisine given the fine dining treatment. The result is entirely unexpected; the menu is unlike anything I have seen in Dubai and definitely warrants a second visit. Classic Turkish dishes are served on bone white china with innovative side dishes; contemporary presentations of classic ingredients. If Suleiman the Magnificent had enjoyed food as good as this, he probably would have spent more time at home instead of building his enormous empire.
Imperium is a gorgeous banquet-hall style restaurant serving international food with a French twist. The lunchtime sitting offers buffet-style starters and desserts, plus à la carte mains, served in the lush interior dining room or the sea-facing terrace. At weekends, breakfast is served either at Imperium or the signature Indian restaurant Amala. Arrive early if you want a table on the terrace.
If the kids tire of the enormous 59-metre pool and expansive beach (complete with beach butler service) that overlooks the calm waters of The Palm, guests in the Imperial Suites receive complimentary day passes for Wild Wadi waterpark – Dubai’s original family friendly oasis – 15 minutes down the road.
The important bit
What: Jumeirah Zabeel Saray
Location: The Palm Jumeirah, Crescent Road (West), Dubai
Cost: from US$1,198 per night