I have a serious obsession with Nordic thrillers. Whether it’s a crime novel set in Oslo or a TV thriller about a remote Icelandic town, I can’t get enough of Scandi noir. I love visiting Scandinavia, too. I’ve ticked off all the key capital cities, and I used to think that I knew the region fairly well.     

But this was before I realised how many thousands and thousands of islands are scattered around Sweden, Finland, Norway and Denmark. Despite being hugely popular with local holidaymakers, these islands remain largely undiscovered by tourists. Like myself, most overseas visitors just head to the region for cultural city breaks.   

So, I decide to go on a different kind of island adventure and explore this alternative side to Scandinavia that many people miss. I set about planning a visit to Gotland, Sweden’s biggest island, and Åland, the Swedish-speaking archipelago that is technically part of Finland.    Summer is the obvious time to visit Northern Europe. But, I decide to avoid the summer crowds of sun-kissed Scandinavians, and turn my Nordic island trip into a winter break instead.   

Now, don’t think that winter in Scandinavia is all about reindeer sleight rides and children’s entertainment. Thankfully, Gotland and Åland leave all that to Lapland. Sophisticated and brimming with local culture, they invite you to thoroughly immerse yourself in the simplistic, cosy and comfortable ways of authentic Scandi living.       We start our Scandi archipelago adventure by flying into Stockholm, the Swedish capital. While it is tempting to stop and explore its dramatic gothic architecture and world-class museums, we have a ferry to catch, and time is of the essence. We hire a car, and head south to the port of Nynäshamn, where around two ferries depart daily to Gotland.     Don’t assume you can just turn up and purchase a ticket. Seats for the Gotland ferry are hot property, and they are known to sell out months in advance during peak times.       

Due to how popular Gotland is, Nynäshamn has transformed into a destination in itself. The opposite to a soulless and industrial ferry terminal, the waterfront features a village of enticing up-market restaurants, boutiques, bars and cafés, all frequented by typically well-dressed Swedes. Kick-starting the buoyant holiday vibe before you even step foot on the gangway, it’s worth arriving early just to experience it.     Busy with families visiting second homes for the holiday season, you’ll see passengers transporting cats, dogs and cars filled to the roof with belongings. It’s a fascinating insight into real Scandi life.     

Taking roughly three hours, the crossing across the Baltic Sea to Gotland is comfortable, efficient and punctual – everything you would expect from organised Scandinavia. By the time you’ve sampled your first traditional Swedish meatballs (there’s truly no finer winter comfort food) on the restaurant deck, you’ll be pulling into the medieval port town of Visby – the true jewel of Gotland. This is where the real fairy-tale begins.      

Gotland occupies a special place in the hearts of many Swedes, and it’s not hard to see why. Just like stepping into a story book, Visby’s ancient churches, quaint, rose-covered stone cottages and cobbled streets are surrounded by an immaculately preserved, 3.5km-long medieval wall. The picturesque town was the original inspiration for the Pippi Longstocking series, the famous 1940s children’s book series written by Swedish author Astrid Lindgren.       

Affectionately known as ‘the city of roses and ruins’, the UNESCO World Heritage town looks even more wondrous under a scattering of snow. You can easily spend several very pleasant days strolling through the narrow lanes, shopping, and sampling fresh local seafood and champagne at the port’s numerous stylish bars and eateries.       Away from Visby, you’ll find miles and miles of wild coastline and unspoiled countryside, only interrupted by tiny villages, Viking ruins and organic farm-to-table restaurants.       

Ideal for active individuals, bike lanes and marked hiking routes cover the island. Or, for the most quintessentially Swedish experience ever, you can try getting around on two skis instead of two feet and go cross-country skiing. An effective way of working off your pickled herring and sourdough, whilst simultaneously exploring the local landscape, skis are available to rent from various locations.        The famous rauker (dramatic limestone stacks) that run along the east coast of Gotland are another unmissable site, and there are plenty of boutique hotels, cottages and cabins to choose from when it comes to picking your accommodation.       

Our base is in the converted lighthouse at Visby Golf Club. Fun and quirky, it’s another of the island’s many hidden gems. Dating back to the 19th century, the idyllic holiday home comes with its own balcony, kitchen and bathroom. You can also head next door to the clubhouse for a hearty breakfast or an evening meal.        Even if you’re not a fan of the great game, you can’t fail to fall in love with its secluded spot overlooking the Baltic Sea. Set to a soundtrack of birdsong and gentle lapping waves, it’s the ultimate place to go back to nature and get away from it all.      

An island of snow-covered, postcard-pretty vistas and plentiful winter sports, Gotland is the very definition of a winter wonderland. A welcome reminder of what a proper winter is like, we relish the simple joy of coming in from the cold to a warm hot chocolate and a good book by the fire. Once we have thoroughly eased into the laid-back pace of Scandi island life, we retrace our steps back to Stockholm, and drive north to jump on our third ferry of the trip to Åland.         Made up of 6,700 green and luscious islands, Åland is an explosion of magnificent nature, wooden windmills, bright yellow and red cottages and photo-worthy seaside scenes. Just as popular with the Finnish as Gotland is the Swedish, it’s easily reachable by ferry from Finland and Sweden, and it has its own exceptionally small airport.     

With only 60 of the islands inhabited, it’s a calm and peaceful place that offers plenty of room to breathe. We never stop marvelling at the complete lack of cars on the roads – rush hour simply does not exist in Åland.       Another great place for land and water activities such as jogging, cycling, hiking and fishing, we stay in Mariehamn, the one and only town in Åland. A remarkable miniature metropolis, you can walk across the entire place in just 10 minutes. Staying at the minimalist and Scandi-chic Hotel Pommern in the centre positions us just metres from the tiny high street, and minutes from the maritime quarter, which consists of a fascinating living museum and a working traditional harbour.      

As with Gotland, you won’t struggle to find excellent, characterful restaurants and cafés serving locally sourced fish, meat and produce, or local boutiques selling traditional Åland-made handicrafts and food products.   The ÅSS Paviljongen restaurant at the harbour is particularly superb. With a chalet-like wooden interior, a glorious patio overlooking the moored yachts and a menu that spans beautifully presented regional specialties, waiting for a table is very much worth it.      When you can tear yourself away from the petite and impeccably tidy world of Mariehamn, the nearby medieval castle of Kastelholm is an essential stop. Considered the most important historical attraction in Åland, the rather austere and imposing building overlooks Åland Golf Club, which offers two 18-hole courses and one 9-hole course throughout the warmer months.      If it’s snowing during your stay, don’t miss the chance to explore the cross country and downhill skiing scene. In January and February, it’s even possible to ice skate over the frozen ocean inlets with the help of a guide, long-distance ice skates and poles. 

With the sea almost always within sight, boat tours are found in abundance. Plus, with sunset falling as early as 3.30pm, there’s plenty of time for stargazing. With few light sources disturbing the intense Nordic darkness, the extraordinary constellations above Åland are enough to take your breath away.    As far from a sinister, grey and eerie Nordic noir as it’s possible to be, Åland and Gotland perfectly demonstrate why the Scandinavian nations are some of the happiest on earth. A refreshing antidote to the UAE’s constant sunshine and lavish luxury, their rustic charm, timeless traditions and undeveloped villages are sure to melt even the coldest of hearts.  If winter isn’t already your favourite season, it most probably will be after this trip.