Dubai’s Palm Jumeirah is a curious destination, a stone’s throw from the bustling Marina area, yet seemingly otherworldly in its serenity, with five-star stays tucked away on its outstretched fronds. One such hotel is the western crescent’s Kempinski Residences Palm Jumeirah, with its palatial Versailles-esque architecture, pristine gardens and teeming family-friendly pool, where beach-going guests are treated a sweeping vista from Dubai Media City to the Palm’s tip.

Away from the sun loungers and stacks of paddleboards lies a restaurant, cut from the same cloth as the main hotel building in terms of its exterior aesthetic, complete with an inviting outdoor terrace and rooftop lounge. Inside, diners are transported to a crisp, clean Mediterranean eatery, where white-clothed tables are balanced are contrasted by classic wood chairs, beige couches, amber-hued lighting and plush green-blue curtains. This is Beluga Beach Restaurant, where cosy and classic collide.

When we think of Mediterranean food many of us confine our expectations to the all-familiar fare of Italy, and the southern coastline of France, with perhaps some inclusions from Greece and the south of Spain. This was a narrow-minded mistake I myself had made upon entering Beluga, which has a far more comprehensive grasp of European cuisine, with influences from across the Med’s far-reaches, including influences from the Adriatic, as well as North African and Levantine touches.

That diversity was stretched even further in the selection of starters, which featured my choice of cured Scottish salmon, with fennel and a herb salad, along with bottarga – the southern Italian name for salted fish roe, or caviar. The Italian-Scottish fusion emerged as a petite, but ample, strip of salmon cubes al dente, with the ‘fishiness’ of the fish tempered by the curing process, ensuring it was more complementary to the ever-so subtle flavours of the salad.

The Northern European fish was probably the only departure from the Mediterranean region, with my dining partner opting for some rustic looking heirloom carrots, drizzled in tahini yoghurt and garnished with pomegranate seeds and pine nuts, creating delightful blend of sweet-savoury from the roasted roots, a pop of sweetness from the pomegranate and the umami flavouring of the Greco-Arabic tahini sauce.

For our mains we were at the mercy of Head Chef Dragan Susa, a Croatian native who designed the menu from scratch six months ago when Kempinski took control of the venue from a third party operator. After expressing a desire to sample some seafood, Chef Susa prepared a corresponding pair of dishes; some Josper-grilled carabineros alongside a plate of orzo pasta, topped with yet more of the deep-sea shrimp and soaked in a rich bisque. It may have appeared gluttonous to be dual-wielding plates but it certainly felt indulgent. The plate of four hefty shrimp were treated to some lemon olive and a garlic dressing which didn’t overpower the natural sweetness of the tender flesh, and the paella-esque orzo, with a generous squeeze of lemon, added some carby goodness to the mains.

Something sweet to finish? The goat cheese cheesecake was another of chef’s recommendations, with a hint of salt to offset the sweetness of the dish, augmented by a generous smattering of ‘strawberry caviar’, while the yoghurt panna cotta offered a hint of tart with the generous topping of mixed berries. I should also add that the restaurant has a generous selection of beverages, including an abundance of grapes, although you’ll no doubt spend more time drinking in the views from the deck – or the rooftop lounge, perhaps with an aperitif and some flavoured shisha as you while the night away.

If Moby Dick was the protagonist of Herman Melville’s novel of the same name, then Beluga – another great white whale – is the lead character of Kempinski’s Palm hotel. Unlike the fictional beast, however, you won’t have to search too hard to find a satisfying dining experience to pair with the fresh interior aesthetics and the stunning shoreline views. Our compliments to the chef.