Chef Kochhar is at the forefront of a culinary evolution after moving overseas to embrace new techniques, and we talk all about his inspirations and how he has influenced the London fine-dining scene.
What unites the flavours of Indian food?
I think what unites the whole nation is the use of spices. That’s the most common thing. At the same time it’s like saying all of Europe uses salt and pepper. Culturally we are so diverse and we are divided into 38 states, each with its own ethos, values and way of cooking. There are places in the country where the people don’t eat anything that grows under the ground. And vegetarianism is still rife; a huge amount of the population doesn’t eat meat. I’ve often said there is no definition for Indian cuisine.
How much have you taken from your own region and family’s cuisine, and how much has been about innovation and borrowing ideas?
I think it’s an ongoing process. I would give 33 percent to each. So, 33 percent of my inspiration is from family, upbringing and nostalgia; 33 percent is my education; and the rest is from travelling and experiencing different cultures. When you migrate to a country like the UK, which is a melting pot of various cultures, it’s very difficult to sit on the fence. You come in and start cooking, and learn new ingredients, techniques and cross-cultural references and, slowly, without realising, it all starts to influence your food. Somebody who I look up to and respect a lot is chef Phil Howard. He said to me: “The boundaries are so blurred now. Twenty years ago I cooked ‘British food’ and your food was ‘Indian food’ and now I don’t know who’s copying who.” And it’s so true.
This evolution, is it by design or by default?
Well, it’s evolution. I’m a migrant to Britain. I wasn’t born there, so I arrived as both an Indian person and an Indian chef. But, after 20 years, I’ve absorbed so much of that country and I’ve lived the life of a British person. I appreciate the produce, the ingredients and the seasons. As I’ve learned more, I’ve grown the confidence to experiment. Twenty years ago, would I put swede on my menu? No way. I didn’t even know what it looked like. But now I could tell you how it grows, where it grows, at what temperature and how it will propagate as a root.
When you first arrived to Britain, what was your initial perception of the local cuisine?
I came with no preconceived ideas. I just wanted to learn and absorb what was there, and I started by looking at what Indian restaurants had to offer, as they would be my competition. Some were amazing and some were not so good, like anything else in life. But I also ate in some of the fantastic, simple British restaurants. One of them was St. John in London, owned by Fergus Henderson. He’s an inspiration and literally wrote the book on nose-to-tail dining. When I ate there, I realised British cuisine could be so intricate — more than great biscuits and cakes.
You’ve already mentioned swede, but what other British ingredients do you appreciate?
I’m keen to learn more about tripe. That’s a challenge. Before I hang up my pans, I’m going to try and do something with tripe, so I’m keen to dig into old British culture. Tripe was even around when the British were ruling India, but it never took off over there. So let’s see how that goes.
How can Indian food find its way into the healthy eating trend?
I don’t think any cuisine completely contradicts a healthy lifestyle; only when you indulge in it. If I take you back to how Indians used to eat 200 years ago, they would eat a thali with seven or eight dishes, but never more than a tablespoon and a half in each box. We indulge now. We finish those seven bowls and then get a second helping of everything. We’re no longer farm workers; instead we sit in offices, so there’s no exercise to balance things out. With moderation and exercise, there should be no issue with Indian food.
How does the food in Benares Restaurant and Bar compare to what may be found in a typical Indian home?
There’s definitely a difference. Home-style food is very much about family and will be shared on the table. There’s always a rusticness that is very charming. When it comes to fine dining, we take the ingredients apart, taking old-culture dishes and modifying and modernising them.
India is huge, but the diaspora is even bigger. Are you able to identify different trends with Indian food in different regions?
That’s an interesting question. Indian chefs around the world view India as a whole. We don’t break it down according to region and we try to represent the whole country through our menu. But, if I went back to India, my aim would be to create a regional menu. I’d love to do a Punjabi menu, or a Rajasthani menu, to reflect my heritage. When you present yourself to your own people, you have to prove a lot more.
How do you see things changing in the future?
I don’t have a crystal ball to see 10 years into the future, but our perception of fine dining — that’s coming off the boil. People want easy dining. People will leave behind the pomp and show in their pursuit of good food. There was a time we were crazy about molecular gastronomy. That’s passé. It’s not happening. People are now getting the tail end of it. It’s time to get back to real food. Show your flair and your technique doing simple stuff that will please the masses.
Make sure to reserve a table at Benares Restaurant and Bar while visiting London, and follow their culinary journey
