I remember the first time I had tapas, way back when, and being immediately enamoured with the notion that you could eat your way through so many dishes in just one sitting, without being considered overly avaricious. Being able to pick a little here, taste a little there was a novel concept to me, a Spanish culinary custom that spoke to me as a foodie who has a ‘fear of missing out’ when it comes to ordering.
I’ve visited many tapas restaurants since then, sating my smorgasbord tendencies, with one particular eaterie sticking in my memory. Salero Tapas & Bodega, at Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates, is a restaurant that I keep coming back to, having warmed to its authenticity in the kitchen and a palpable Spanish vibe that’s hard to beat.
The restaurant itself is laid-back, modern and small enough to give a homely feel. The open-plan kitchen is perfect for those wanting to feel part of the action, but we opt for a larger table to make room for the paella we’ve already pre-ordered in our heads.
I’m immediately transported to a little Spanish village, where I envisage tomatoes tumbling from vines kissed by the sun
As one does with tapas, we choose several dishes to dip in and out of. The Pan con Tomate, which is traditionally served at the start of a Spanish meal, is seasoned perfectly with garlic, sea salt and tomato, the latter so fresh they drift me away to a little Spanish village where I envisage tomatoes tumbling from vines kissed by the sun.
We also have the Croquetas de Pollo y Croquetas de Setas; the second of these is the real star of the show, served with a very thin crisp breading on the outside and stuffed with semi-blended wild mushrooms – absolutely divine. With so many ingredients flown in directly from Spain – the olive oil, olives, anchovies, Bomba rice, padron peppers – you can genuinely taste the power-packed flavour hit in each dish.
We sip on white sangria to stay on theme, which adds to the tangible authentic Spanish vibes and cues us up nicely for our second round. The Pulpo a la Parrilla is a skilfully grilled octopus dish with devilishly creamy truffled mashed potato – a delicately balanced flavour combo that is rich and rewarding.
We sip on white sangria to stay on theme, which adds to the tangible authentic Spanish vibes and cues us up nicely for our second round. The Pulpo a la Parrilla is a skilfully grilled octopus dish with devilishly creamy truffled mashed potato – a delicately balanced flavour combo that is rich and rewarding.
No tapas meal is really complete without paella, so we order the Paella de Pollo to try something different from the usual seafood suggestion. Served at the table in a large frying pan, the flavours are intensely Mediterranean and throw my tastebuds back to my earlier trips to Alicante and Barcelona. The chicken is moist and packed with flavour, with the meat virtually falling off the bone. The Bomba rice is cooked a little softer than al dente, soaking up all the flavour of the stock yet still holding its shape, while the mixed peppers, lima beans and accompanying lemon wedges help add colour to what is a kaleidoscopic dish for all the senses.
Other dishes that come recommended are the Rabo de Toro con pure de Papas Rusticas (boneless oxtail with mashed potatoes), Tortilla de Patata Española (traditional Spanish omelette) and Champinones al ajillo (sautéed garlic mushrooms in white wine with fried peppers), which I’ve already ear-marked for my next visit.
As dessert rolls around, we agree we probably don’t need to order the churros, but then again… when in Rome/Spain/Dubai. The classic Spanish dough dish has the added twist of chocolate piped through the middle, resulting in a gooey, sticky, sweet gift that keeps on giving. Trust me, it tastes even better than it sounds. Served with a side of hot chocolate, this is definitely one for the sweet-toothed.
We sip coffee to the accompanying sounds of live acoustic guitar playing Acuarela and the gentle humdrum of forks clattering and voices chattering, while we discuss coinciding our next visit with Salero’s weekly flamenco dancer.
While you may still step back into Dubai after your dinner, your tastebuds will be lingering with the flavours of Spain long after you leave.
RESTAURANT REVIEW:
WHAT: Salero Tapas & Bodega
WHERE: Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates, Dubai
TEL: +971 4 409 5999