For those not in the know, the original London venue is an absolute institution of British fine dining. Before Britain’s current swathe of gourmet gems, gastro pubs and world-beating eponymous eateries, we were the laughing stock of the culinary world – except for The Ivy. With an emphasis on excellence and a convenient proximity to the West End theatres, the West Street restaurant has stood for almost a century, famously hosting innumerable stars of stage, screen and sport, which it still does to this day. Columnist and author A.A. Gill was even prompted to pen a history and recipe collection in 1999, which gives some indication toward the simplicity and homely nature of the cuisine.
“Think of it as British colonial”, I’m told, as the on-duty manager places the stripped-down summer menu in my hands. “Meaning it’s classic British fare but we’ve borrowed some really great things from elsewhere.” That's evident at a glance from the organic French produce, a lobster and chorizo salad and an utterly enticing butter chicken curry. My own pithy description of the menu is British soul food. It’s hefty and satisfying rainy-day cuisine that your grandma might concoct when you’ve had a rough week. And while there aren’t many rainy days in Dubai, the dimly lit ambiance of the restaurant floor is a reasonable illusion of a British locale, glowing with lamps and chandeliers and coloured by the enthusiasm of the staff, ensuring there is no “cathedral effect” of hushed tones and bashful shuffling. This is a venue where people celebrate, slap shoulders, broker deals, propose to loved ones and, most importantly, eat.
The aforementioned simplified menu takes effect September 10 and is a response to Dubai’s summer slowdown. The attitude of the team at The Ivy is to focus the attention of the kitchen on beloved dishes with an emphasis on nailing the classics, but don’t be dismayed, there’s still ample choice, and even a few surprise summer additions, such as the heirloom carrot and duck salad with seared orange segments. I opt for an Ivy classic to whet my appetite – an incredibly flavour-intensive steak tartare, diced with shallots and infused with ketchup (yes, really) Tabasco and splashes of Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce. If you’re scratching your head about the latter, just ask a Brit.
The boldness of the raw dish is completely juxtaposed with the relatively gentle flavours of the seafood hors d’oeuvres, the sizable trio of pan-fried scallops accented by strips of Parma ham and foie gras dressing. It’s all too easy to be overzealous with a luring array of starters such as the chargrilled octopus and squid salad, with Castilian potatoes and chorizo (not technically a "colonial" British dish but there’s no fun in being pedantic) but I was determined to sample another British institution: The Ivy’s own take on a hearty shepherd’s pie.
Judging by the waiter's enthusiasm, the lamb may have been reared in a suite at the Burj Al Arab, but the emphasis on quality meat is a point of pride at The Ivy. I also sampled one of the custom-made Dingley Dell farm sausages, which pack in black pudding and onion jus for an entirely unique flavour. The pie, however, doesn’t resemble anything I ever saw or tasted from grandma’s kitchen. It’s elevated enough to seemingly defy gravity and comes ringed in a gravy with a crisp layer of mash that’s generous enough for me to question whether any dessert would require a belt adjustment. It would have been remiss though to not taste The Ivy dessert plate, which includes a miniature portion of the seasonal baked summer berry pie and a teasing lump of banana sticky-toffee pudding and a scoop of white-chocolate ice cream.
(All photography by Haitham El Shazly)
Just like the namesake foliage, The Ivy’s menu will get a hold of you, especially if you forego your post-dinner espresso fix for a more thrilling kick. Espresso martinis may have been en vogue for some time but (if you are so inclined) it would be advisable to migrate to the bar and ask the resident mixologist for a signature Salted Caramel Martini made with vanilla vodka, caramel, Kahlua, cream and enough espresso to ensure you can keep the conversation, and perhaps the drinks, flowing.
DINE:
What: The Ivy
Where: The Boulevard, Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Dubai
Price: AED 705 for two, without drinks
Tel: +971 4 319 8088
www.theivydubai.ae