From the ancient indigenous civilisations to the brutal Spanish conquest and, more recently, an influx of European and Asian migrants, Peru has a potted history to thank for its incredible vibrancy. As the capital of this cultural melting pot, you would be forgiven for thinking that Lima might have something of a confused identity, but, somehow, it doesn’t.
The local Nikkei cuisine is a case in point, born through the marriage of soy, a prominent ingredient in Japan, and chilli (or aji), the base of every traditional Peruvian dish. On paper, the powerful, spicy flavours of Latin America should overpower the subtle, delicate zest of the Orient, but somehow, the fusion works harmoniously, much to the satisfaction of both the Peruvian population, and the second and third generation Japanese chefs who create it.
“As I always say, ‘opposites attract’,” says head chef Mitsuharu Tsumura, who joins me as I take a seat overlooking the open kitchen in his stylish Nikkei restaurant, Maido in Lima. “Japanese cuisine is like classical music, while Peruvian is like hard rock. Both have a very special, unique charm.” And with that, he returns to the kitchen to take control of his incredibly professional, if a little stony-faced, culinary team.
Amidst the chatter of smartly dressed businessmen enjoying an impromptu mid-afternoon sake, I am served the first dish of a 14-course taster menu entitled ‘Nikkei Experience — The Third Reality’. The Nikkei ceviche is served cold, topped with crispy yuyo and accompanied by a sweet, artisan beer brewed in South America. It is a bold move to offer a reworked version of Peru’s national dish as an opening course, but Tsumura’s bravery is more than justified on first taste. The perfectly marinated raw cabrilla is citrusy and fresh, while the yuyo and tobiko (fish roe) add texture.
The following dish — tender, pan-fried Paracas scallops with fukujinzuke (pickles) and kimpira gobou — is served in theatrical style; revealed from beneath a glass cloche in a puff of onion-infused smoke.
This playful, experiential theme is consistent across all aspects of the restaurant, where guests are welcomed with a chorus of “Maido!” (meaning ‘welcome’) from the whole team, and your cheque is foraged from an edible garden, complete with a selection of fresh macaroons, at the end of the meal.
It is quite apparent that everyone at Maido is deeply passionate about food. Each dish is explained in expert detail, while the paired beverages are delivered to the table with the precision of an orchestra. In one instance, a glass of dry Chilean sauvignon blanc seemingly appears from nowhere to perfectly counteract the spice of a meaty cuy confit with molle pepper (another local classic), the guinea pig double fried in duck fat.
For me, that dish is narrowly outshone by the chef’s favourite, nitsuke braised short rib. Infused with sugar and soy, and served with fried white rice, cecina and Japanese pickle, the dish perfectly defines Nikkei cuisine. In a beautiful twist of fate, it also happens to be the most delicious dish on the menu, boasting an unrivalled tenderness and a deep, rich flavour. Lunch is concluded with the arrival of ice-cream with crispy castaña (chestnuts), the finishing stroke to a masterpiece of a meal.
After leaving the chic restaurant, I walk back to my hotel via the trendy Miraflores district of the city. En route I pass hybrid Chinese-Peruvian (or ‘Chifa’) restaurants; Spanish churro stalls and a host of Bolivian cafés serving everything from alpaca to ostrich. Although Nikkei cuisine represents just a small cross-section of Peru’s burgeoning culinary scene, it also embodies the complex cultural heritage of its host country. History dictates that it shouldn’t work, but it does. Spectacularly.
THE IMPORTANT BIT
What: Maido
Where: 399 San Martin Street, Miraflores, Lima
Price: US $115 for the 14-course Nikkei Experience or $169 with pairings.