Man shall not live by bread alone — despite the words that greet you in the restaurant foyer. In this case, a glowing neon yellow sign, affixed to a neatly tiled wall: ‘Bread Street Kitchen & Bar’. It's probably the only trace of fanfare within the new dining establishment, tucked away in the bustling Lan Kwai Fong district.
Considering Ramsay has spent a decade branding himself as a tyrant clothed in chef’s whites, one could be forgiven for anticipating that his temperament would have influenced the restaurant’s DNA. Not at all. There isn’t even a subtle aroma of piety, just an elongated eating area flanked by an open kitchen, revealing a multitude of ardently applied chefs.
With an aesthetic based on the original London eatery, the lively saloon-style restaurant employs both modern and vintage decor. The Anglo-Euro menu features a large crossover selection from its sister restaurant in London, with artisanal produce imported from the same local sources. Leather seating matches the plush, padded menu, which offers a comprehensive but clearly curated range of gourmet British fare. And the soft lighting is a flattering hue for the varied array of patrons — from suited and booted expats to local Hong Kong scenesters.
Yep, Britain’s carb-heavy favourites are on the menu, including battered barramundi with crushed peas and chips, but for starters, I give myself a health kick with a heaping mound of kale. The fresh salad (pictured below) is ample but not overpowering, and glistens with just the right amount of white balsamic dressing. Each bite is a vitamin boost, bolstered by red cabbage, shaved fennel, and sprinklings of sunflower and pumpkin seeds.
The 11 main-course options offer twists on British classics, but what better choice than the shepherd’s pie? Resident head chef, Gilles Bosquet, does something quite masterful with the trifecta of mince, vegetables and mash. Topped with brioche garlic crumbs, the generous layer of potato puree sheathes the juicy lamb, which is flavoursome without being overly salty. The sturdy metal oven dish it’s served in may not seem overly large, but you’ll find yourself feeling quite full by the end, especially with an accompanying steaming bowl of mixed greens.
For a sweet finish to the experience, the pineapple carpaccio with passion fruit and coconut sorbet is a light option that provides a more-than-adequate crescendo for the palate. The flavours will linger as you pass that same neon glow and return to the streets of Lan Kwai Fong, and the experience will remain tangible long after you leave Hong Kong.
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