Sleepy Muscat in the Sultanate of Oman might not be on the must-travel-to-destination list of most jet-setters. It is however a city where attractions are growing by the year, and the culturally-rich capital offers a stunning contrast of deserts, mountains, beaches and a local community known for their friendliness.
As an expat living in Dubai, I was struck by the difference between the cities. There are no skyscrapers; buildings are limited in height in order to reserve a traditional look and feel, and Muscat is also populated by 75 per cent local population, whereas Dubai comprises 85 per cent expats.
Booked into The Chedi, we are met at the airport by a chauffeur driven Mercedes-Benz 500 S-Class. After a quick 20-minute drive through the city we pull up to The Chedi and are greeted by a traditionally Oman aesthetic. The elegant resort embraces a Zen-like quality of simplicity when it comes to luxury, and friendly smiles abound as we are guided into the one-of-a-kind grand Majlis-style lobby, where a cool drink revives us after our travels.
The resort’s architectural landscaping pays homage to Oman’s traditional falaj, or water tunnels, with minimalistic luxurious landscapes and modern Moorish water gardens reminiscent of the Alhambra. Along with serene architectural design, the resort has the longest pool in the region at 103 metres. With 158 villas and suites, privacy and relaxation without interruption, is assured. The Chedi Club Suite, conveniently situated next to the long pool and spa, is an extension of the hotel that was newly built approximately five years ago. Styled in neutral tones and dark fixtures, it has a sunken terrazzo bath and private terrace.
Time is of the essence on this short trip, so without further adieu we swap our casual outfits for something a bit more dressed up before heading off to the leading arts and culture organisation in the Sultanate – the Royal Opera House Muscat (+968 2440 3300; www.rohmuscat.org.om). On our own private tour we are able to see the ins and outs of the establishment and take the time to appreciate every detail. The Arabesque design, meticulously crafted from the use of marble, inlaid wood and artifacts results in a feeling of grandeur. Guided by the vision of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said, the vision was to serve as a centre of excellence in global cultural engagement, showcasing rich and diverse artistic creations from Oman, the region and the world.
Today, the Opera House is a driving force for promoting cultural tourism to Oman. The Opera House premier performance welcomed Opera Turanot orchestra, conducted by Placido Damingo, and has since hosted world-renowned artists such as Renée Fleming, Andrea Bocelli, Yo-Yo Ma and the Mariinksy Ballet. Even if you’re not intending to catch a show, it’s worth stopping by to admire the beauty of the building. As the sun sets on our first day in Muscat, we retreat back to the resort’s fine dining establishment, simply titled Restaurant, where the relaxed, romantic ambiance is favoured among guests. The food is impeccable, and the atmosphere, coupled with a pianist playing jazz-inspired tunes under the restaurant’s elaborate chandeliers, only adds to the Omani-inspired, Zen design of the hotel.
The Chedi is renowned for it's Arabesque design
We return to Restaurant the following morning for an extravagant buffet brunch, which has everything from eggs and toast to oysters and sushi, as well as a wide variety of delectable desserts to choose from. Working off such a big breakfast can only be done by a bit of shopping, which you can enjoy in the Majlis-style lobby opposite Restaurant at the resort’s luxury boutique. You won’t find typical hotel buys here, like sunscreen and painkillers; instead, guests can find trendy fashion pieces that might be needed on holiday, alongside local art, and designer jewellery uniquely designed for the hotel, from Thailand, Bali and Oman. It equates to the ultimate mini-shopping experience for women who fancy a bit of stylish spending on their holiday.
It’s hard to select from the three hotel’s three temperature-controlled swimming pools, but we naturally opt for the long pool. An adult-only pool, it’s situated in front of the spa and is filled with salt water rather than chlorine-based water. Lined with palm trees and black double day beds, it’s the ultimate place to relax, day or night. In the evening, the music is turned up and drinks and tapas are served. Alternatively, The Chedi pool overlooks the beach – perfect for those who wish to stay sand-free with cinematic views of the Gulf of Oman. It’s worth noting that unlike other resorts, The Chedi has a strict dedication to providing its guests with a peaceful environment to relax and rejuvenate. Watersports are prohibited; the focus is on the sound of the sea. For those looking for a bit of excitement and exploration, a dive centre is a mere 20-minute drive away and The Chedi’s concierge can also arrange dolphin-watching trips.
We book dinner that night at The Beach restaurant, which is only open for one sitting a day, exclusively serving dinner outside in the fresh air. The romantic waterfront patio setting serves fresh seafood and fine wine – I highly recommend the oysters and champagne. Again, both the exterior and interior architectural design of the space are very symmetrical, Zen-like and classically beach-chic; the smarter side of casual is the restaurant’s dress code for both men and women, with trousers and shirts for men and elegant skirts and dresses for women recommended.
Along with lounging at the resort, we also make some time for golf, making our way to Almouj Golf at The Wave (+968 2200 5990; www.almoujgolf.com) Via the hotel’s luxury car transportation service for a tee-off time at 9am. Aptly named, the course runs alongside a six-kilometre stretch of white beach, following the natural lines of Muscat’s pristine coastline. The 7,342-yard links style course, designed by World Golf Hall of Famer and entrepreneur Greg Norman, offers amateurs, like myself, and professionals a challenging, yet rewarding round of golf set among the noteworthy views of the Sea of Oman and the Hajar Mountains – visible from everywhere on the course. For those looking to brush up on their game, Almouj Golf is also home to an academy with a state-of-the-art swing studio, driving range and private golf lesson area. The course is beautiful, and quite difficult, however my partner cruises through, taking the challenge in his stride.
Later that afternoon, we return to the hotel just in time to schedule a 60-minute signature Balinese Couples Massage at The Spa. The largest spa in Muscat at 800 square metres, there are 13 meditative spa suites and a lounge overlooking the sea. The suites are the foundation to a seamless service as everything is included in the room: a changing area, bathroom, bathtub, shower, foot ceremony area, and a massage bed, meaning your treatment will be uninterrupted by other guests and occur in complete privacy. After changing into our robes, our treatment begins with an Aromatherapy Foot Polish, after which we are escorted to our side-by-side massage beds to begin our massages. While massage is nothing new to either of us, the total experience is exquisite from start to finish. We conclude our spa treatment with a comforting cup of tea in the lounge area.
As the sun dips, it’s time for us to head back to our room and freshen up for our last dinner at the resort. Tomorrow, reality awaits, and the busy city of Dubai is calling our names. The romance of the seaside restaurant beckons for a second visit and so we head there once more for another taste of oysters and bubbly. Soaking in the sights, sounds and smells of this relaxing retreat we know this will not be our last trip to Muscat.