The UAE’s capital, Abu Dhabi, may have long languished in Dubai’s shadow, but the dynamic island city is shaping an exciting future while managing to preserve the country’s traditional heritage. Beyond its rapidly growing skyline are beautiful beaches, dense mangroves and waterways that divide the city into both natural and man-made islands.
It’s worth remembering that modern Abu Dhabi as we know it only dates back to 1960 when oil was first discovered. Before then, the emirate was a quiet backwater of fishing villages lined by date palms and inhabited by camel-herding Bedouin tribes. Wild Arabian oryx once roamed in areas like Al Maryah – a natural island that is fast becoming the city’s leading financial hub and luxury-shopping destination. In the late 1700s Abu Dhabi was a haven for wildlife, which could explain the city’s namesake, which translates to “Father of the Gazelle”.
Perhaps the region’s most renowned natural feature is its 60 square kilometres of natural mangrove forests that became the gateway to the emirate’s pearl-diving heritage, which accounted for as much as 95 percent of the region’s income in the 19th century. The 1930s saw the region’s pearl industry collapse as a result of the Japanese invention of the cultured pearl, but the city managed to prosper once more with the discovery of nearly 10 percent of the world’s oil reserves in the early ‘60s.
Far from being a one-trick pony, the last 20 years has seen Abu Dhabi diversify with the development of its islands, such as Yas, an artificial island that sports the only hotel in the world that overlooks a Formula 1 racetrack, and Saadiyat, the cultural heartbeat of the city that brings together world-class golf, unbroken white sandy beaches and the soon-to-be-opened Guggenheim and Louvre museums – all within a 27-square-kilometre area. The completely natural but previously uninhabited Nurai Island is Abu Dhabi’s answer to the Maldives – an über-contemporary boutique resort that sits alongside the Arabian Peninsula, and puts the city on the ultra-luxury map.
It is fitting – and probably no coincidence – that Abu Dhabi’s skyline and mosque are visible from most places in the city. Despite its modern façade and constant reinvention, the UAE’s capital upholds many of its old traditions and continues to embrace the rich cultural heritage that has withstood the test of time.
Al Maryah Island – Let’s make it personal
When it comes to brands that cater to the luxury-conscious and offer a highly bespoke service, Al Maryah’s The Galleria mall (Al Falah St.; +971 2 616 6999) has got it covered. One such store that has taken up residence is Berluti, the Paris-based brand known for its hand-assembled bespoke shoes, “Grande Mesure” suits and uniquely finished Venezia, calfskin and alligator leather. For showstopping jewels, renowned London-jeweller David Morris is the go-to designer for royalty, the red carpet and even film; Morris famously crafted jewellery for various James Bond movies. And for a bespoke shoe service like no other, make an appointment at The Cobbler where you can have a pair of shoes made from scratch in the on-site workshop. Designed to resemble a traditional gentlemen’s club from the 19th century, the shop is kitted out with swoon-worthy velvet curtains, chequered tiles and a billiards table.
Coming up roses
It’s difficult to imagine hundreds of Arabian oryx (al maryah in Arabic) once inhabiting the now-glossy Al Maryah Island, dubbed the “Manhattan of Abu Dhabi”. The city’s burgeoning financial hub and shopping hotspot is a natural island separated from the city by a small strip of water. Located just a few steps from the upscale Galleria mall and Sowwah Square, the slick Rosewood Abu Dhabi ticks all the luxury-business-hotel boxes (and more) with an integrated in-room iPad system, stylish dark-wood panelling, huge Villeroy & Boch bathtubs and floor-to-ceiling windows to soak up cityscape views. Standout cuisine comes in the form of its Cantonese restaurant, Dai Pai Dong. Based on the concept of Chinese street food, the open kitchen serves dishes inspired by the staff’s own family recipes, like hand-pulled beef noodle soup and ma po tofu with chicken.
Nurai Island – Contemporary castaway
With long stretches of sandy beaches, turquoise waters and VIP villa service – the comparisons between the Maldives and boutique-resort Zaya Nurai Island, located just 10 minutes from Saadiyat Island by boat, are uncanny. Derived from the Arabic word noor (light), the previously uninhabited natural island is a luxury retreat for people wanting to unplug from the city.
Most of the 40 Miami-esque villas line a powdery-white, crescent-shaped beach and come with private infinity pools, a Bose entertainment system, walk-in rainfall showers and Acqua di Parma amenities brought together with Zen-like neutral interiors. With a cap of 80 guests staying at the resort at any one time, coupled with no cars, both privacy and tranquillity are assured. For the ultimate stylish entrance, guests can arrive to the island by helicopter or seaplane.
A vision in white
Probably Abu Dhabi’s most iconic landmark, the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque (+971 2 419 1919) covers a staggering 12 hectares, and is officially the world’s third-largest mosque – accommodating up to 41,000 worshippers. An architectural masterpiece, the mosque is clad in Indian Makrana marble (also used in the Taj Mahal and White House), and features 82 onion-top white domes punctuated by four lofty, white minarets that soar 115 metres towards the sky.
It may be rooted in Emirati soil, but with materials sourced from Turkey, New Zealand and Germany, and architects drafted from Italy and the UK, it identifies on a global level. Understated it is not; it’s impossible to miss the largest of its seven crystal chandeliers, which is modelled on a date palm and weighs a hefty 12 tons, shimmering with Swarovski crystals. Equally impressive is the prayer hall’s hand-knotted Persian carpet, which happens to be the largest in the world, completed by 1,200 Iranian women over the course of two years.
Eastern Mangroves – Dive in
Long before oil was discovered in Abu Dhabi, the main source of income for inhabitants in the region was pearl diving. One of the best ways to learn more about this centuries-old tradition is by cruising the mangroves’ labyrinthine waterways on board a traditional jalboot, which sets sail from Eastern Mangroves Resort & Spa by Anantara on a daily basis (+971 50 221 1055). Although pearl divers used to live for over four months on the boat in the middle of the Arabian Sea, this seafaring adventure is considerably shorter in length. In just one hour you will witness the art of opening an oyster and take home the prized pearl, while musing with the captain about the emirate’s rich heritage over dates and Arabic coffee. If you’re lucky, you will also spot wading birds, flamingos and turtles that live in the mangroves.
Cultural medley
Boasting grand central passageways, mosaics and arched ceilings, mixed with exotic Thai details, Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa by Anantara manages to blend Asian and Arabic design with aplomb. Located by a tract of protected mangrove forest – visible through the hotel’s floor-to-ceiling windows – the waterfront property is located within a 1.2-kilometre stretch of nature reserve, yet it’s only a 10-minute drive to the corniche and halfway between the airport and city centre. The jewel in the resort’s crown is its sumptuous spa, decked out in Asian opulence with a lavish Turkish hammam where you can relax like a sultan on an eight-sided tile slab, and indulge in one of five different cleansing rituals.
Yas Island – Life in the fast lane
With a championship golf course that ranks 24th in the world (excluding the US), the world’s largest indoor theme park (it can be seen from space), and an F1 racetrack – Yas Island certainly trumps the competition as a world-class leisure facility. Positioned smack in the middle of the famed Yas Marina Circuit, the futuristic-looking 499-room Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi is draped in a biomorphic veil that illuminates at night from svelte silver into a kaleidoscope of colours. Some guest rooms, such as the Deluxe Rooms and the Yas Grand Suites, offer a glimpse of the racetrack – just be sure to bring some earplugs on race days. One of the best spots to cool off is in the two sparkling rooftop pools, while beach lovers can catch some rays at nearby Yas Beach Club.
STAY
Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa By Anantara
Rosewood Abu Dhabi
Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi
Zaya Nurai Island