Nothing is more quintessentially Korean than soju, which literally translates as “fire water”. This rice liquor is the lubrication that greases the industrial powerhouses of juggernauts like Samsung and Hyundai, the glue that holds friendships together, builds team spirit and fuels many late-night karaoke sessions. Soju drinking is so ingrained in Korean culture that questions about your soju drinking capacity will be part of your job interview, visa application and performance review.
Soju holds the world record in terms of sheer volume produced, outpacing even vodka. Producer Hite-Jinro’s factories churn out 1.6 billion bottles of Chamisul soju each year and exports to 64 countries. That makes soju the most popular tipple in the world according to Drinks International magazine. Mass-market soju is made from a mixture of fermented rice, barley and tapioca, which is then filtered through bamboo charcoal.
The high-proof alcohol is then diluted with water to bring it down to a less throat-scorching 17-24 percent alcohol by volume (ABV). For those who really want to bond, linking arms with “love shots” will quickly get you in the mood. And these shots are done in serious volumes as Psy (of “Gangnam Style” fame), eagerly demonstrates in his 2014 music video “Hangover” with Snoop Dogg. Another modern interpretation of drinking soju are “boilermakers” – one of shot of soju dropped into a glass of beer.
This summer Korean producers released yuja- (Korean pear), blueberry-, lemon-, grapefruit- and pomegranate-flavoured soju mixes. These subtle-strength “mixju” are hugely popular with young female drinkers partial to cocktails. So popular, that factories have been unable keep up with demand. However, the soju drunk in Seoul’s restaurants and bars today bears little resemblance to the soju of the past.
Soju was first made in Korea 700 years ago and was traditionally taken as a health tonic by the kings and aristocracy of the Joseon Dynasty. “Traditional, distilled soju, different from the diluted soju we have today, was used as a medicine,” says Lee Hyun-ju, a traditional Korean liquor sommelier and lecturer at Incheon National University (previously Incheon Technical College). “It was expensive and for special occasions.”
Andong, a rural town four-and-a-half hours south of Seoul, continues to produce this traditional style of soju made from only the finest-quality rice and distilled to 40 percent ABV. Upon tasting it, it’s easy to see why it’s considered the best in the country: the rice flavour is very pure with an elegance and finesse unlike other sojus.
Soju used to be made purely from rice until the Park Chung-hee industrialisation policies in 1965 made it illegal to use rice in soju production. Korean companies turned to sweet potatoes, tapioca, wheat, barley or any other grain they could get their hands on. In 1999, the ban was finally lifted, and in the following years the rediscovery and artisanal production of traditional alcohol was supported by the Korean Food Foundation and the Lee Myung-bak administration.
The recent growth of South Korea’s tourism industry has also made it economically viable for boutique distilleries to produce a finer product. One such quality soju is Hwayo, found at fine-dining restaurants, five-star hotels and whisky bars. Using a reduced-pressure distillation process, the distilled and diluted sojus are made solely from rice, which is then aged in onggi (kimchi pots) for three to six months. Hwayo X Premium is aged for five years in bourbon oak barrels from Kentucky.
Whether you’re in Korea to party or connect with a client, soju will be with you all night long, everywhere you go, until sunrise. Thankfully there is now a range of artisanal “fire waters” that gently caress the palate rather than burn the throat on the way down. And with a vibrant cocktail scene developing in Seoul, be sure to ask your bartender for a soju cocktail to pair with that Sunday-morning brunch. The locals will love you even more.
Four ways to appreciate Korea's "fire water":
AN EDUCATION
In a winding back alley of Seoul’s Insadong district is The Sool Galley, a fine-art and liquor gallery where one can escape the tourist hordes to sample a range of hard-to-find sojus from Korea’s countryside. The tasting centre has more than 20 traditional sojus plus a range of other traditional liquors such as yakju (fermented fruit and herb liquors) and maekgolli (a milky, fermented rice beer). Staff here have a wealth of knowledge and can explain the history and origins of many traditional drinks. Tastings are free and scheduled three times a day but the sessions are popular, so advance booking is recommended. The normal range of sojus in tastings is limited so be sure to ask one of the traditional alcohol sommeliers for Andong soju and Moonbaesool. Seeds, nuts and grains are also on hand should you wish to touch and smell some of the ingredients in your soju.
PRICE: Tastings are free; bottles can be bought from US$20
TEL: +82 2 739 6220
www.facebook.com/thesoolgallery
NEW AMERCIAN MEETS NEW KOREAN
Mixologist Yoon Tae-eun is passionate about Korean soju, which takes centre stage in seasonal cocktails at The Beastro, a new-Amercian bistro run by Korean-American siblings Matthew and Catherine Chung. Tae-eun uses Hwayo soju (pictured above) to bring another dimension to classic cocktails. “Hwayo is deeper and yeastier than other sojus,” he says. His Jitter Bug Perfume cocktail is infused with smoked hickory and smells like leaves, molasses and treacle – it’s autumn in a glass, and a stunning experience. For a hot summer’s day, try the Hwayo Collins, refreshing and balanced with rice, lemon, melon and papaya notes – ideal for brunch. The cuisine at Beastro is fun, hearty and uses the finest ingredients, making it arguably the best bistro food in Seoul. Just be warned: the fried chicken and kale slaw is addictive.
PRICE: Jitter Bug Perfume US$11, Hwayo Collins $13
TEL: +82 2 334 2500
www.thebeastroseoul.com
A MODERN TWIST
Traditional Korean seafood dishes, rustic soups and grilled meats are playfully reinterpreted with French precision, modern plating and classy service at Congdu restaurant in downtown Seoul. While the original versions of these dishes can be found in the city’s back alleys or at local market stalls, those looking for an upscale experience should reserve a table at Congdu, where they will be treated to Korea’s textural and pungent cuisine with fine wine and boutique liquors. Congdu has a range of international wines, Korean beers and traditional liquors including soju, yakju and maekgolli, many of which are infused with herbs, ginger, honey, pine leaves and cinnamon.
PRICE: US$30 for mains, $20 for 375 ml of Ilpoom Jinro soju
TEL: +82 2 722 7002
www.congdu.com
SEOUL BEFORE PSY AND SAMSUNG
Bukchon Hanok Village is the heart of old Seoul. Tiny alleyways twist and turn between traditional hanok houses with art galleries and cafés hidden behind each corner. This exquisite centre of tradition is one of the few spots in Seoul that hasn’t been modernised since many of the buildings are protected. It’s here where you’ll find Kim Taek-sang, the master distiller at Bukchon Heritage Studio, who makes soju, yakju and maekgolli. “In the zodiac, each day has an animal assigned to it,” he explains. “Our ancestors used to make soy sauce on the Day of the Horse because horses have the darkest blood. Soju is made on the Day of the Pig because pig’s blood is the lightest and the liquor will be clearest.” Kim’s soju “Samhaejui” is so unique, it’s been designated the Seoul Intangible Cultural Asset No. 8. Kim literally makes the soju with his own hands as he believes the lactobacillus (a type of bacteria) on his hands imparts a distinctive flavour to the drink. Gastro Tour Seoul runs tours to Bukchon, which include a soju-making demonstration, tasting and meal with the master distiller.
PRICE: US$80; tours must be booked at least two weeks in advance
TEL: +82 70 8888 3500
www.gastrotourseoul.com