Having worked in Dubai Media City for the best part of 11 years, I’m on first-name terms with Radisson Blu Hotel, the two-tower property that has long provided refuge for journalists, media and business folk looking for somewhere to unwind after a tough day at the coal face. Perhaps best-known for its favoured after-hours hangouts - Icon and Tamanya Terrace - it is Certo Italian restaurant that is the property’s secret weapon.
Tucked into the corner of West Tower, the contemporary space is bigger than it initially seems, with the restaurant apportioned into alcoves and corners, with a marble bar and atrium-style floor-to-ceiling wine ‘cellar’ (filled with 250 different varieties) sectioning the room in the middle. At lunch, the vibe crackles with business overtures, as people talk deals, dollars and prospects over pizza and pasta - the light-flooded room breathing new live into fresh opportunities. Come night, candles are lit and the lights lowered, as easy-going Italian refrains are layered over a soundtrack of unhurried evening tête-à-têtes.
My table is by the window, affording us a ringside seat to people-watching both inside and out. The menu (paper for now, because of Covid) folds out like an A3 origami dream, each section unveiling another layer to Certo’s Italian masterpiece. Navigating our way through the menu, from Antipasti, to Primi to Secondi and onto pizza and pasta requires time and relative levels of self-control to not devour all the focaccia, parmesan cheese bites and olives that are presented while we choose.
I opt for Burrata, that’s laid on a bed of young lettuce, with cherry tomatoes, and tossed with Sicilian extra virgin olive oil. It’s creamy but with that satisfying slightly tougher outer edge that resists the knife and makes the inside all the more rewarding. The Carpaccio di Manzo is flavoured perfectly, with a smattering of Parmesan cheese to cut through the raw beef. For mains, we share three dishes (the struggle to choose was too much), opting for Tagliolini All’Aragosta - homemade pasta ribbons that wrap their way around beautifully cooked pieces of lobster, with a light garlic, cherry tomato and parsley sauce.
The Fregola al Frutti di Mare is a kaleidoscopic declaration of flavour, with Sardinian couscous, shrimps, mussels, clams and a piquant tomato and garlic sauce. My rather classic dish of Penne All’Arrabbiat is just what I want - a bowl of al dente pasta, cooked with a fiery sauce. It is simple, but perfect. For me, a restaurant’s reputation can be made or broken on the success of an ‘easy’ dish, and now I understand why Certo’s is still going strong since opening 14 years ago.
And onto dessert... A pre-requisite in almost all Italian households. I struggle to choose between the Affogato al Caffe and Omaggio al Tiramisú, the latter pipping the other to the post, with its martini glass presentation, rich layers of creamy mascarpone and lady fingers and light dusting of cocoa powder. The Pannacotta E Frutti di Bosco is a minimalist’s delight, yet maxes out on flavour - its presentation so elegant you almost wish not to disturb. But we’re rebels and it’s worth it.
And onto dessert... A pre-requisite in almost all Italian households. I struggle to choose between the Affogato al Caffe and Omaggio al Tiramisú, the latter pipping the other to the post, with its martini glass presentation, rich layers of creamy mascarpone and lady fingers and light dusting of cocoa powder. The Pannacotta E Frutti di Bosco is a minimalist’s delight, yet maxes out on flavour - its presentation so elegant you almost wish not to disturb. But we’re rebels and it’s worth it.
The evening is one of simple pleasures in a restaurant where the setting and ambience complement the food, rather than overshadow it. In fact, Certo feels almost a little clandestine, as if we’ve uncovered a hidden gem that you desperately want to shout about yet are hesitant to give away your trade secret. Everyone deserves to eat Italian this good, I’m just not sure I’m quite ready to share.